Photo by Jesse David Green
“We were certainly surprised by the fact we’d be opening in the middle of a pandemic,” Allison adds. “That was not on our radar when we started dreaming and building Farm Club. So, at first, it felt like a major blow, but then we rallied together. We built an amazing team of staff and realized one advantage we had was that at least we knew the circumstances we would be opening in. So, it better prepared us to open in the safest, smartest way. And I think our customers really sensed that when we opened.”
Photo by Jesse David Green
Related Read: The Agrarian Artist: Meet Nic Theisen at Loma Farm
Sitting at a picnic table overlooking the rolling hills and dipping valleys of Leelanau’s central spine, a tray of farm-fresh food and a glass of specially crafted beer seem almost superfluous. That didn’t stop me from indulging in every taste, though. It’s the kind of food that makes you slow down, look it over and talk about it. Much of what is served is grown and gathered just a few steps from your table in the large garden that graces the foreground of your view. A colorful array of those fresh veggies joins breads, garden dips, cheeses, smoked local fish and other sustainably sourced meats on the menu, and that’s how most of Farm Club’s fare is built. One of the original menu items, The Ploughman’s Platter, is filled with those homemade breads, unique dips, locally sourced meats and veggies that vary day by day, depending on what’s in season. You’ll also find dishes like robust bean soups in winter, and light and bright green salads come spring. The menu is fluid, like the seasons of Northern Michigan, but will always land local, sustainable and delicious.
Photo by Jesse David Green
Photo by Jesse David Green
Photo by Jesse David Green
Related Read: 5 Things to Do This Winter at Traverse City’s Farm Club
“We started seeking out makers to collaborate with a few years before even opening,” Allison says. “We are so lucky to live in a place with so many talented experts in their fields. Bryan [Ulbrich] at Left Foot Charley has been amazing to work with. When we first met, we told him we were big fans of ciders we’ve tasted from France and Montreal—more earthy, and full of complex apple flavor. He put together a variety of hard-to-find heirloom cider varieties to make a special Heirloom Cider we now serve at Farm Club. Brengman Brothers, which is just up the road, also sat down with us early in the process to come up with some unique wine offerings to serve at Farm Club.”
Possibly one of the most surprising aspects of Farm Club’s first year was how on point the beer was, from the very start. Why? There’s a wizard behind the curtain. “Our brewer, and brother-in-law, Corey Valdez, is a mad scientist and genius,” Allison says. “We call him our secret weapon. He has a background in organic chemistry that gives him a true understanding of the subtleties in making good beer.”
Nearly every aspect of Farm Club grew from a local collaboration, feeding off the strengths of the region’s most talented creatives. “We also sat down with other makers for our marketplace,” Allison says. “Like Hannah [Shales] from Thistle and Grey, to use our farm ingredients in her soap that we sell, and Sue [Kurta] from Boss Mouse Cheese walked the farm with Nic coming up with a list of things she could use in her cheese products for our shop.”
The eclectic and ever-changing array of offerings in the marketplace and on the menu is built from intentionality and strong purpose. According to co-owner Nic Theisen, the goal of Farm Club is “to bring the privy of the farmer to the people.” Nic explains that privy includes, “the special access to things farmers have: a warm melon heated by the sun, a salad harvested the day it is served, the smell of the earth and a view of the fields from your table. We hope to build a stronger connection between people and place.” This idea is executed through the staff as well, who all work shifts with the farmers, allowing for a deeper connection to the experience they service.
Photo by Jesse David Green
Related Read: The Little Fleet Announces Food Truck Lineup (It’s Amazing).
When they say they wanted to showcase where they live, it couldn’t be more literal. “Nic and Sara, Gary and I, and our brewer Corey Valdez all live less than a mile from Farm Club,” Allison says. “It’s our backyard. And we really wanted to create a business that is respectful of this landscape and welcoming to its surrounding neighbors.” As for the reason behind the exact choice of location, beyond a very short commute to work, it was the proximity to TART’s Leelanau Trail, a non-motorized, recreational trail running 17 miles from Traverse City to Suttons Bay. “We loved picturing people biking and skiing up to Farm Club,” Allison says.
Daydreams of biking patrons became a reality as soon as Farm Club opened. During the warmer months, nearly every time I visited, there were amazing attire-clashing phenomena at every table. A young local couple on a date, subtly dressed up in their mainstay drink-sipping and charcuterie-noshing outfits, might turn their heads for a moment upon hearing a low, approaching click-clack. They’d look up to see a group of four, dressed in bright, skin-tight athletic biking gear, walking stiff-legged to their table, still in their clip-on bike shoes. Beyond that tableau, families might be gathered around a large picnic table at the edge of the patio, passing around plates and laughing, as their kids run around in the large grassy area. For me, as a visitor, this congregation of all ages and backgrounds is what Farm Club is all about.
Photo by Jesse David Green
“By far, the most rewarding part has been the response from our customers,” Allison says. “We were blown away by how quickly people discovered us. And how appreciative they are of what we have created at Farm Club. It is the best feeling in the world, to see that look of awe on some- one’s face when they first visit Farm Club. I feel really proud of what we have created.”
Jesse David Green is a photographer based in West Village Detroit, with a love of shooting the North. He shoots commercial, wedding and lifestyle photography (handcar.co).
Find this article and more in the July 2021 issue of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine; or subscribe and get Traverse delivered to your door each month.
Searching for more new restaurants, delicious dishes or outdoor dining options? Visit our Food & Drink page to find your next dinner spot.
